Toyota Tech

SR-5 Pickup - All Pro In-cab Rollcage Install

by Scott Bradley

All Pro In-cab Cage Kit
 Things needed, grinder, something to cut tubing, welder, 9/16 inch
wrench and socket, chopsaw, a drill, a centerpunch, a magnet, a good
freind and some patience.

 The actual cage only took about 15 or so hours to fit and weld in to the truck. The tubing does go into and out of the truck several times. After fittting a tube I would tac it in place then remove it from the
truck and fully weld it in the garage. Then I would put back in the truck and fit the next piece.
 All Pro suggests installing the pads first but that put the main hoop and door bars closer together. I wanted as much room as possible so I pushed the main hoop all the way back as far as I could and put the pads under the tubes unwelded. some trimming was needed so the tube would sit flat on the pads. In doing this I could no longer bolt the rear pad to the floor due to the body mounts being in the way. I used a magnet to hold the hoop while I measured it. I then left the main hoop unwelded just sitting there. Next I placed the front bar. Once again I did not place the pad first. I wanted this bar as far forward as I could for room and strengh. Carefull measuring is needed here as the top should be straight along the top of the door. I used the that as a guide and cut the bottom of the tube to fit. I then had a friend hold the front bar in place while I measured for the small tube that goes from the main hoop to the front bar, this tube is welded to the main hoop and bolted to the front bar so you want it cut close so there is tight. A sloppy cage is sloppy and unsafe. All Pro uses a curved tube for this, I cut the curved part off and used the straght tube as this seemed to fit tighter and I thought it would be stronger. Now tac the short tube, remove main hoop and fully weld. Once back in the truck place the front bar with a sleeve on it and slide it onto the new main hoop. It should now stand on it's own. Repeat for other side.  Now that both front bars are done I fit the windshield bar.This bar is made up of 3 different bars. I put a mark on the headliner to get this straight and as referance. The end bars are time comsuming just getting to nocthes right and lined up. You need to get the ends straight or the middle will not line. These 3 bars are held together with sleeves and bolts. Once all was tacked I removed the front bars and welded the end bars that go across the windsheild. After putting the bars back in I put the sleeves on all the joints which were tight, then measured for the center spreader bar. This uses 2 bars that have bend in them to go up into the headliner and a sleeve. Once again worth it in the end. I put the joint in the center so it could be covered up with a handle.  Now you have a semi-complete cage in your truck. I now adjusted all the sleeves so the tubes met in the middle of them. Also I sat in the truck and moved the sleeves so the the bolts were not in direct line with my head in case I got close with my head they would not spear it.
After that I marked all the holes and sleeve locations, then took the cage out and asssembled it on the driveway matching my marks and drilled the holes. This part is a pain in the neck. After all the
holes are drilled I assembled it in the truck again useing regular nuts with the supplied bolts as you will take it apart again and this makes it easier. Some bolt holes will need "adjusting" once back in the truck but, keep the holes tight.  Now put the pads where you you can drill the holes thruogh the body.
With some moving and creative placement of the front pads I was able to bolt them to the floor. The rear pads I could not. I played with the placement and drilled more the a couple of holes before I figured the main hoop was to far back and I would just have to weld it the floor and rear wall. After the pads were taced out came the cage again and welded fully along with the grab handles. Once I taced the rear pads I discovered it would no longer come out due to the middle spreader bar being long. I just welded it in the truck.  

Then I painted it all outside,exept for the main hoop I painted in the truck. I then put it back in the truck and assembled it useing the pinch bolts provided so they don't come loose. Then bolted the front
bars and welded the rear pads to the floor and rear wall. After it was all together it felt good and sturdy. One other problem I had was the rear hoop was tight against the seat belts and they would not retract. I solved this by removing juct the covers and they work fine now. You just have to watch getting stuff caught in there. I was able to keep the rear veiw mirror and light, the sunvisors will still fit if insatlled in the down position. The window cranks still work and I still have the factory headliner.
 After wheeling with it my girl and I felt safer and the grab handles helped alot. The problem I have now with the cage and 4 point belts I was takeing more risks and having more fun not having to worry about
rollover safety as much. But it is no excuse to be stupid. Beside that you also have the cool factor.